Every week we get asked the same question: “Is this a first edition?” Sometimes yes, sometimes no — but most of the time the answer is sitting right there on the copyright page, and the owner never looked. Here's a simple, publisher-by-publisher guide to finding out for yourself.
Step 1: Look on the Copyright Page
Flip to the copyright page — it's usually the page facing the title page, or the page just after it. You're looking for three things:
- A number line (like “10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1”).
- A publisher statement (the words “First Edition” or similar).
- A date of publication.
Step 2: Decode the Number Line
Most modern publishers (post-1970) use a number line to show which printing this is. The lowest number in the line is the printing number. So:
- 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 → first printing.
- 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 → second printing (the 1 has been removed).
- 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 → fourth printing.
- 5 6 7 8 9 10 → fifth printing.
The logic is that the publisher removes the lowest number each time they reprint, so the lowest surviving number is the printing you have.
Step 3: Check the Publisher Statement
Even with a correct number line, many publishers require a printed statement for it to qualify as a true first edition. Here's a cheat sheet for major publishers:
- Random House — must say “First Edition” AND have a “1” in the number line.
- Alfred A. Knopf — must say “First Edition” AND have “1” in the number line.
- Farrar, Straus & Giroux — number line alone is usually enough; “First Edition” statement is a bonus.
- Viking — number line; sometimes “First published in” statement.
- Scribner — pre-1973 firsts have the letter “A” on the copyright page. Post-1973, use number line.
- Little, Brown — often uses “First Edition” plus number line. Pre-1960, dates alone.
- Harcourt — letter line (A, B, C, D …) where A is first.
- Doubleday — date of publication matches the copyright date AND “First Edition” or code FR.
- HarperCollins / Harper & Row — number line AND “First Edition” statement.
- Simon & Schuster — letter line (post-1970s) or number line.
- Penguin / Viking Penguin — date of first printing and “Printed in the U.S.A.” or number line.
Step 4: Points of Issue Matter for High-Value Books
For significant titles, a first edition isn't enough — you need the correct issue. Examples:
- The Great Gatsby (1925) — first-issue has “chatter” (not “chatted”) on page 60, line 16.
- To Kill a Mockingbird (1960) — first-issue has “JB Lippincott” on the spine and the dust jacket.
- Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone — Bloomsbury 1997, print line “10 9 8” ending at 1, name “Joanne Rowling,” and “1 wand” listed twice in wizard supplies list.
For valuable books, get it verified. We've seen many well-meaning sellers list books as “first edition” that were later printings, and we've seen real firsts that the owner didn't recognize.
Step 5: The Dust Jacket Matters — A Lot
For collectible hardcovers, the dust jacket can be worth more than the book itself. A first-edition The Great Gatsby without its jacket might be worth $3,000. With an original jacket, it's worth $150,000+. For anything collectible, we need to see the jacket — including the original printed price on the flap.
Step 6: Book Club Editions Are Not First Editions
If your book has a small dot, blindstamp, or square indent on the lower back cover — it's a book club edition. These are not first editions, regardless of the copyright page. Read our article on books that aren't worth selling for more.
When in Doubt, Ask
There's no shame in not knowing. We use edition bibliographies (McBride, Zempel, and publisher reference works) and we've handled thousands of books. Text photos of the title page, copyright page, and jacket to 702-496-4214 and we'll tell you exactly what you have — no sales pressure.